September 28, 2021, 12:43:53 PM

Show posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - idris

Bike Talk / When to tell?
June 16, 2020, 09:58:02 PM
If you have a spill, but don't want to claim, (either break the bike for parts yourself or fix it at your own cost) when do you typically have to tell your insurer, and when don't you typically need to?
Projects / Project suggestions please
June 16, 2020, 09:53:22 PM
Just suppose you had a 2010 ZX6R9F, with 16000 miles and generally pretty good condition.
Or it was until you dropped it at 30-40 and thrashed it cosmetically. Probably an insurance right-off ... if you made a claim.

Or you could stick with a bike you've owned from new, and trick it out.
Assuming there was nothing major mechanical that got broken, what would you you choose to upgrade and what would you budget?
Mechanical / Separating corroded exhaust
October 12, 2019, 09:40:36 PM
I need to get my silencer off, and possibly the pre-muffler. I can't get separate them due to corrosion.
I've tried Plusgas, heat, tapping with a hammer to crack the rust, gently prying the union open with a screwdriver ... and it ain't budging.
Twisting or waggling the end can around just moves the pre-muffler by exactly the same amount.
Short of cutting them apart, any thoughts on what I can try next?
Mechanical / Re: Yellow crust
October 07, 2019, 06:26:31 PM
Then I guess it's probably coming from where the hose from the cylinder head attaches to the air switching valve. What does that valve actually do? (I forgot to reconnect it once and the bike ran like ****.)
Mechanical / Re: Yellow crust
October 05, 2019, 06:38:59 PM
Oil mist from where?
Mechanical / Yellow crust
October 05, 2019, 07:55:03 AM
Having taken the air box off my ZX6R R9F I've found a yellowish crust (like some fluid has leaked and evaporated) around the air pressure switch hoses.
Any idea what it might be?
Mechanical / Re: Fan / engine temp
May 09, 2016, 01:22:18 PM
Thanks all. Finally managed to get the fan to run at an indicated 105c.
A little warm, if I understad correctly, but at least it's working as we get to the warmer weather!
Mechanical / Re: Fan / engine temp
May 08, 2016, 03:30:47 PM
The temp sensor that feeds to the dash seems to be working.
Whether the relay for the fan has failed, or the fan itself, or something else, as yet I don't know.
Mechanical / Fan / engine temp
May 08, 2016, 02:42:41 PM
The manual for my 2010 ZX6R says the fan should come on at 100c.
Having just fitted a new rad, running the engine with the bike stationary, and the fairing off, the temp guage is showing 103c, and the fan is still not kickin in.

I've seen mention on other websites about the fan starting at higher temps, but ...
1. What is usual real-world temp for the fan to start?
2. What is the tollerance on 100c?
3. What is the temp you should definitley stop the engine at?
Mechanical / Re: Filling / bleeding rad
May 08, 2016, 07:52:18 AM
Thanks Moz. I ended up with a Kwak manual. It's quite heavy. A lot heavier than a Haynes. I reckon it would hurt quite a lot if you accidentally hit your head on it. Feel free to pop over some time and I'll show it to you. ;-)

Thanks Green. At least it sounds like I'm going in the right direction.
Come to think of it, I think only 1.5L of coolant has gone in so far and the system is supposed to hold 2.5L, so that's a bit of a clue to how much air is in there!
Mechanical / Filling / bleeding rad
May 07, 2016, 05:25:58 PM
I've had to replace the rad on my 2010 ZX6R9P.
Using the Official Kwak service manual I have done the following:

Slowly filled the rad to the neck.
Filled the reserve tank to full mark.
Run the engine with the rad cap removed.

Initially I got small bubbles.
Then coolant started coming out of the filler neck faster.
I gave all the hoses a good tap to dislodge bubbles.
Then the level dropped back down and coolant couldn't be seen in through the filler neck. I assumed that meant a large air bubble had worked its way out. In the meantime the level in the reserve tank had gone up by nearly 1". I was summed that was just coming through the overflow take off on the rad cap neck.
I topped up the rad, and ran the engine again, and coolant started coming out of the neck faster than before. When this seemed to get worse I stopped the engine. Again I can't see coolant through the rad cap neck.

I can't poor the coolant in much slower, so I'm wondering ...
Is this normal?
Bike Talk / Re: No Haynes or Clymer?
May 05, 2016, 05:19:17 PM
Well I acquired a copy of the work shop manual and it went to etching like this:
How to remove A: see How to Remove B
How to remove B: see How to Remove C
How to remove C: see How to Remove D
How to remove D: see How to Remove E
How to remove E: do the following.
Then back to How to remove D: see how to remove F

I think I'll spend more time turning pages than unscrewing bolts. Come back Haynes, all is forgiven. 
Bike Talk / Re: No Haynes or Clymer?
May 03, 2016, 10:22:35 AM
Ok. Though I've always realy liked Haynes, and considering I've just seen the official price for the workshop manual is £103.48, Haynes represent considerably better value for money.

But any idea why Haynes, Clymer etc don't seem to be doing recent Kwaks?
Bike Talk / Re: No Haynes or Clymer?
May 02, 2016, 07:58:16 AM
Presumably Kawasaki intend people to buy printed versions of that? Is that why Haynes don't do a corresponding manual?
Bike Talk / No Haynes or Clymer?
May 01, 2016, 09:47:55 AM
I need to get hold of a service/repair manual for a 2009/2010 ZX6R, but I can't find anything listed from Haynes of Clymer.

Am I missing something, or do they not exist? And if not, is there an alternative?
All I can find is manuals like these ...

... and I've no idea whether they walk you though repairs in the same way Haynes always have. (Which is what I need.)