I don't think there was any minimum number needed for homologation, and I don't think they sold boat loads of them by any stretch. Most people chose the extra 36cc version.

I have had two of the 2004 M1H 6RRs, one from new, one second hand Phil Seton tuned and sorted version. Shout if there is anything I might be able to answer for you.

Martin

Thanks Ash. This worked a treat, and I managed to get the cylinder head off tonight.

Now to see if I can bolt it all back together, and start it without metal on metal carnage.

Martin.

Evening all,

I need to remove the cylinder head on my 06 10R, and I am struggling to loosen the bolts holding the cylinder head to the block.

I have removed all of the cams, chain guide, crank sensor etc. as detailed in the workshop manual, but I simply cannot loosen the studs themselves. It feels like I am likely to round the stud heads before they start to loosen.

Any tips? All I can think of is to physically remove the engine so I have enough room to get an air impact gun onto the studs, and try and shock them off. That is a fair bit extra work though, so would like to avoid if I can.

Thanks all,

Martin.

Quote from: ash on August 18, 2014, 10:59:35 AM
I could check it in (after) work one afternoon if you can get it to Bishops Cleeve.

Ash,

That is a very kind offer, thank you. I am waiting on a call back from a local place, but if that proves no good, I will PM you and see if your offer still stands.

Martin.

Quote from: ash on August 15, 2014, 09:06:33 PM
Where are you ?

Betwixt Bristol and Swindon. I have been pointed towards an engineering firm called Piston Broke in Bristol. I have used Tim Radley a few times before in Gloucester too, I imagine he has the gear to do this also.

As it is only a simple check and confirmation of 'flatness' I need, I am hoping to find someone local-ish who would be happy to check it whilst I wait.

Martin.

Due to a monumentally siezed exhuast stud, a complete failure by Plusgas, heat and bolt extractrors, I had to break out the drill to try and remove a snapped, and stuck exhaust stud.

3 evenings of very careful drilling later, I have managed to drill though the head into the water passage . Muppet 

Second hand cylinder head is winging its way to me, but I want to be sure it is completely flat before fitting. Is it possible to do it DIY - maybe I can buy a flat plane something, or is it realistically machine shop only?

Martin.

Just thought I would post back here in case it helps anyone in future. FTR suspension kindly took a look at the shock, and told me that the top alloy casing is broken internally, causing the rotation.

No spare parts are available from WP any more, so alas this shock is likely to head for recycling.

Great service by FTR, quite disappointed that there is no parts backup from WP.

Martin.

I have been having the same thoughts. I am no faster on my ZX10R (lap times wise) than I was on my ZX6RR, but I have a lot more fun on the 10.

The friend I do most track days with has a CBR600RR and he has been trying to persuade me to downsize for years. I semi-relented recently and hired a 2013 ZX6R at Almeria to try. Just as fast on that as I was on the 10, but I *really* missed the sheer laugh out loud grunt of a litre bike.

I booked myself some 1-2-1 with Mike Edwards instead. Fix me, not the bike 

Martin.

Thanks Ash, definitely no movement at the top, or bottom mounts. Something has come loose internally.

I spoke with Colin at 100% and he told me he has seen the same recently on another, same generation zx10r WP.

Colin recommended FTR suspension, so the shock is in its way to them for diagnosis, and hopefully repair. Of slight concern is the fact that FTR say it is hard to get WP spares these days.

Martin.

Thanks everyone for the ideas. The top mount is tight, and does not move. The shock length adjuster (which is at the bottom on mine) is also tight.

Odd one, I shall have to speak with Colin at 100% and see what he thinks.

Martin.

Evening all,

The WP 4618 on my trackbike has started behaving oddly recently. The nitrogen reservoir can now rotate fairly easily, meaning that the reservoir can now contact the chain when the suspension is heavily compressed.

The short video below shows what I mean. I have taken the shock off the bike, and examined it, but I cannot see any locking pins or grub screws to tighten.

Anyone know what stops the reservoir rotating normally?

Martin.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bp7qZ0H1370&feature=youtu.be

I had this on my 1400GTR recently. For reasons I do not truly understand, the bike has individual headlight and main beam relays under the fuel tank, but they are fed in turn by a multiple relay box under the seat. On my bike, the under seat relay box had been fried by a failing voltage regulator.

The workshop manual for my bike described how to test the relay box, which was very simple in practice, but you needed to know all the relay pin locations accurately. What you are testing is that the switched side of each relay goes from open (infinite resistance) to closed (effectively no resistance) when you energise each relay using 12V across the magnet.

You really need the wiring diagram, and a multimeter unless you fancy taking a punt on a new relay box. Please do note my comment about charging voltage though, I would hate for you to replace the relay box then blow the new one fairly shortly after.

Martin.

In my experience with my 10R, a front wet will last 5-6 laps OK in the damp/drying conditions. The rear will not last 2 laps before the hard tread edges (that provide a lot of the grip in full wet conditions) are destroyed.

Wets will still grip superbly in these conditions, but you will ruin the tyres very quickly. They will also move around a little more, which may be dis-concerting.

Sticky road tyres like the D212GPs also work surprisingly well in the damp, *providing* the tyre is still hot. I get 2 or 3 magnificent laps on them straight off the tyre warmers, but even at middle fast group pace, I cannot keep the heat in them and the grip fades.

Martin.

I have been using Ultimate Ear custom plugs day in, day out for 4 years of commuting. Great product, recommended.

I have the ones with built in speakers, really helps the boring commute with some tunes.

Martin.

I highly recommend Michelin PR3s or Pirelli Angel GTs as road tyres, particularly in the winter. Simply astonishing wet grip, and last 9,000 miles on my big, heavy tourer. Dry grip is perfectly good too, enough for knee down.

I doubt you will get them for £150 though.

Martin.