well in the next couple of days ill be completing the pre mot work on the ktm (and then a full service) my main issue is the headrace bearings ive only done this once and it was a fair while ago
sadly this is the guide I found http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166844
going to attempt to follow that anyone got any hints or tips for this (and don't say get a garage to do it)
THANKS!!
Any special tools needed aswell? Dont want to get to the end and not have something
Competency
Quote from: Carbon_ZX6R on April 08, 2015, 09:45:26 AM
Any special tools needed aswell? Dont want to get to the end and not have something
You will need some form of bearing puller to install the static/outer race in the head of the bike, I wouldn't want to attempt it without a puller. You also need to put some heat on it to make it a bit easier. Putting the inner race on the spindle, well I didn't heat mine up enough and ended up having to hammer the new one home with the old inner race. Next time I do one I will put the inner race in the oven and get it up to 200ish deg and it should drop on easy (maybe)
I have only done one so far, so by no means an expert.
Today is the day! I'll document my failure so you can all laugh
As my old Grandad used to say..... before you start, sit down in front of the job, have a brew and weigh it up.
Good luck sausage....... but yes, if you do cock it up, I'd very much like to read about it.
Quote from: Lord Danoir the first on April 10, 2015, 08:08:34 AM
but yes, when you do cock it up, I'd very much like to read about it.
Fixed that for you
HAHA!!!....... you know me..... ever the optimist.
The reality is, I hope he doesn't lose a limb
Quote from: Lord Danoir the first on April 10, 2015, 08:23:04 AM
HAHA!!!....... you know me..... ever the optimist.
The reality is, I hope he doesn't lose a limb
ill end up with the usual cut hands etc , im most likely to knock it off the stand....
you wont need a bearing puller ....
or an oven @ 200°c...
Quote from: big gav on April 10, 2015, 10:28:42 AM
you wont need a bearing puller ....
or an oven @ 200°c...
good to hear but I have them if needed....
bikes going up on stand now...
Quote from: Carbon_ZX6R on April 10, 2015, 07:38:55 AM
Today is the day! I'll document my failure so you can all laugh
Just remember failure is the road to success...
Don't forget pics of the carnage... Err I mean progress and end result :moto:
And also that they'll probably need re-adjusting after a few miles....
Good luck and god bless
Quote from: terry950sm on April 10, 2015, 02:22:15 PM
Good luck and god bless
although, in all likelihood, he'll be pissing himself too.
firstly id like to say fuck you fuck you and fuck you bearings are all done and nice and smooth however new problems have surfaced but id imagine there simple to fix....
firstly the speedo cuts out some times on full left lock(so does ignition whole thing goes dead)
secondly I started it up and it decided to piss fuel everywhere (was a bit of a relief I thought it was oil)
I think its out the carb (if the taps off it doesn't leak)
I also found a lead not pluged into anything
photos will follow
Face facts.....you bought a right shitter with dubious history and god knows what else lurking around the corner, and you wonder why the guy you bought it from sold it on so quickly.
Quote from: WizzBang on April 10, 2015, 05:11:34 PM
Face facts.....you bought a right shitter with dubious history and god knows what else lurking around the corner, and you wonder why the guy you bought it from sold it on so quickly.
if im honest I think I may have inadvertently done something as this was fine before
well this is how we started out
(http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/t574/blackstarracing8/WP_20150410_001_zpsb21sw8rp.jpg) (http://s1314.photobucket.com/user/blackstarracing8/media/WP_20150410_001_zpsb21sw8rp.jpg.html)
and well this is the only other photo I took as I couldn't be bothered
(http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/t574/blackstarracing8/WP_20150410_002_zpsgm0brv7w.jpg) (http://s1314.photobucket.com/user/blackstarracing8/media/WP_20150410_002_zpsgm0brv7w.jpg.html)
but here is the strange lead I found
(http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/t574/blackstarracing8/WP_20150410_004_zpsomegxq1n.jpg) (http://s1314.photobucket.com/user/blackstarracing8/media/WP_20150410_004_zpsomegxq1n.jpg.html)
think it said magneta or something simmiler on it?
this is the carb the fuel seems to be coming from the little nib on the right hand side
(http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/t574/blackstarracing8/WP_20150410_005_zpshra28no2.jpg) (http://s1314.photobucket.com/user/blackstarracing8/media/WP_20150410_005_zpshra28no2.jpg.html)
Help!
Do yourself a favour, buy a manual for the bike if you intend to keep it
That the overflow, so wrong float height, or sticking float?
Quote from: DaveH on April 10, 2015, 05:51:34 PM
That the overflow, so wrong float height, or sticking float?
Could be an overflow but they are usually a longer hose.
For the electrical connection, check all of the electrics. What works and what doesn't. That'd be a start. On my KTM if I spin the front wheel the speedo starts working, is yours the same?
Quote from: WizzBang on April 10, 2015, 05:11:34 PM
Face facts.....you bought a right shitter with dubious history and god knows what else lurking around the corner, and you wonder why the guy you bought it from sold it on so quickly.
to be fair he was a prat he didn't really have a clue all he knew was his peds....
Quote from: DaveH on April 10, 2015, 05:51:34 PM
That the overflow, so wrong float height, or sticking float?
someone else said sticking float but I have no idea what to do about that
Quote from: Tiiimmmaaayyyy on April 10, 2015, 05:54:05 PM
Quote from: DaveH on April 10, 2015, 05:51:34 PM
That the overflow, so wrong float height, or sticking float?
Could be an overflow but they are usually a longer hose.
For the electrical connection, check all of the electrics. What works and what doesn't. That'd be a start. On my KTM if I spin the front wheel the speedo starts working, is yours the same?
ill have to I think it may be a loose connection of some sort to the ignition maybe as I moved a couple of wires and it got better , I don't know if im honest but it imagine it does ill check tomorrow while im finishing the tiny pre mot jobs
Quote from: Carbon_ZX6R on April 10, 2015, 05:55:41 PM
Quote from: DaveH on April 10, 2015, 05:51:34 PM
That the overflow, so wrong float height, or sticking float?
someone else said sticking float but I have no idea what to do about that
You'll have to take the carb out and take the float bowl off. Give it a clean and set the float height and re-fit.
Could be a wire getting trapped by the lock stop
Quote from: Tiiimmmaaayyyy on April 10, 2015, 06:05:33 PM
Quote from: Carbon_ZX6R on April 10, 2015, 05:55:41 PM
Quote from: DaveH on April 10, 2015, 05:51:34 PM
That the overflow, so wrong float height, or sticking float?
someone else said sticking float but I have no idea what to do about that
You'll have to take the carb out and take the float bowl off. Give it a clean and set the float height and re-fit.
urrrrggghhh I was afraid you was going to say that, could it not be anything else that anyone can think of as it was fine?
This site is useful www.ams4ktm.co.uk/ktm-parts-finder
Quote from: DaveH on April 10, 2015, 06:07:06 PM
Could be a wire getting trapped by the lock stop
that's pretty much my thinking
Quote from: Tiiimmmaaayyyy on April 10, 2015, 06:07:43 PM
This site is useful www.ams4ktm.co.uk/ktm-parts-finder
cheers ill give it a gander
Try giving the float bowl a tap with the handle of screw driver, it may just be some grit stopping the valve from closing. If that doesn't work you're left with one option......
You'll need an impact driver and a decent set of crosshead bits to remove the screws holding the float bowl on. They normally use threadlock on them.
Quote from: ash on April 10, 2015, 06:53:51 PM
You'll need an impact driver and a decent set of crosshead bits to remove the screws holding the float bowl on. They normally use threadlock on them.
An impact driver for a float bowl? The screw are 3mm maybe 4mm, you don't need that much force to shift them.
Quote from: Tiiimmmaaayyyy on April 10, 2015, 06:13:34 PM
Try giving the float bowl a tap with the handle of screw driver, it may just be some grit stopping the valve from closing. If that doesn't work you're left with one option......
ill give the float a go in the morning , ive isolated the electrical problem (not attempted to fix it yet)
its this big black cable, I may have let something hang by it briefly.... if I push it upwards towards clocks you hear a click and everything works from lock to lock no idea what the wire is but ive ether broken the wire or more likely ive half pulled a plug out
(http://i1314.photobucket.com/albums/t574/blackstarracing8/WP_20150410_006_zpsxkltvk6z.jpg) (http://s1314.photobucket.com/user/blackstarracing8/media/WP_20150410_006_zpsxkltvk6z.jpg.html)
Quote from: Tiiimmmaaayyyy on April 10, 2015, 07:05:33 PM
Quote from: ash on April 10, 2015, 06:53:51 PM
You'll need an impact driver and a decent set of crosshead bits to remove the screws holding the float bowl on. They normally use threadlock on them.
An impact driver for a float bowl? The screw are 3mm maybe 4mm, you don't need that much force to shift them.
Chew them up and you end up having to slot them. I managed that a couple of time back in the day. They are normally in there very solid.
if the float bowl screws are tight warm them a bit with a heat gun and give a light tap to loosen them
I'm doing final mot prep tomorrow so ill see then I'm hoping I can free it up by giving it a few taps etc
well the new tyre should arrive today so ill attempt to give the carb a whack (worse case I have to take it off) and ill attempt to fix the electrical problem (the big wire I posted a pic) im hoping its just not quite connected properly and I haven't in fact broken something , so should be easy then all that's left is do up a couple of bolts , fit a bolt , turn chain split link the other way round...... fit new indicators, fit new grips get tyre fitted and job done , oh and try and locate the idle screw as that thing is idling at what sounds like 2k so need to adjust that.
its done its all done its finally mot ready im fooking exhausted the rear spindle was a pain to get out , so fingers crossed there is no reason why it shouldn't pass with flying colours tomorrow
it passed!!!!!! no advisory's ive managed to turn the idle down a bit..... , just got to get tax now by some miracle!
:thumbright:
nice work. Hope the momentum of fixing things keeps going and sort the little niggles..... will make for a much more pleasurable ownership if you do!
Quote from: Gilby104 on April 15, 2015, 02:23:25 PM
nice work. Hope the momentum of fixing things keeps going and sort the little niggles..... will make for a much more pleasurable ownership if you do!
to be fair I quite enjoyed sorting the "14 fails" just need to take the headlight off now so I can get to the clocks as ive still got the electrical fault , completely my own doing as I let the thing hang on the cable momentary and as ive just noticed it cuts the engine out so needs doing....
the moment the log books in my hand some serious modifications will be undertaken!
All taxed now so all legal just gone for a ride in getting a slight clunk from what I can only imagine is the bearings. What have I not done or have I just not tightened the nut enough?
Is it a clunk or a ker-plunk sound :cheesy:
Quote from: terry950sm on April 18, 2015, 11:55:08 AM
Is it a clunk or a ker-plunk sound :cheesy:
shhh feels like it rocks forward a tiny bit....
Sounds like you have over tightened them mate
Quote from: terry950sm on April 18, 2015, 12:37:31 PM
Sounds like you have over tightened them mate
really? ill I didn't do the nut up particularly tight
When you over-tighten them they then work loose.
My head bearings have been tightened every single time the bike has been in for service (3 times) or other work (twice). Bike comes out feeling smooth as anything, then over the next 5-8k miles the front end just feels a bit 'loose' and 'clunky'...goes in, head bearings tightened, then feels great again? And no, I don't pop wheelies all over the place!
Quote from: terry950sm on April 18, 2015, 12:44:47 PM
When you over-tighten them they then work loose.
My head bearings have been tightened every single time the bike has been in for service (3 times) or other work (twice). Bike comes out feeling smooth as anything, then over the next 5-8k miles the front end just feels a bit 'loose' and 'clunky'...goes in, head bearings tightened, then feels great again? And no, I don't pop wheelies all over the place!
so do I losen the big top nut or tighten it?
You might need new bearings. Take it to someone that can have a look and advise you.
Quote from: terry950sm on April 18, 2015, 04:38:55 PM
You might need new bearings. Take it to someone that can have a look and advise you.
ive just fitted them !!!!!!
Depends how good you fitted them.
Quote from: terry950sm on April 18, 2015, 04:44:10 PM
Depends how good you fitted them.
stop it your make me cry!!!
Head bearings don't need to be 'tightened' they need to be correctly pre-loaded. In a lot of cases you need to torque them up to a setting anf then back them off 1/4 or 1/2 a turn, it depends on the bike so you need to get the correct information.
You may have 'fitted' them but have you fitted them correctly, I'd guess not.
Do some reseach, like on the KTM forum that has been suggested as they WILL have the correct information, to makesure you actuallyknow the correct process for fitting and adjusting the bearings. As said if you have over-tightened them you may well have scrapped them.
something on here https://www.google.co.uk/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=how%20to%20correctlt%20set%20ktm%20steerining%20head%20bearings
may help.
there smooth as anything I didn't do them up tight so I cant have done that I need a torque wrench and id be sorted