October 25, 2021, 12:01:57 PM

RR - EVO 3

Started by WizzBang, July 20, 2013, 07:20:55 PM

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July 20, 2013, 07:20:55 PM Last Edit: September 18, 2013, 08:25:39 PM by Neil
Here we go again..... The project thread continues.

After experiencing high running temperatures for the last few years, I noticed that this year things have been getting worse quicker.

Having a good poke around seems to indicate that the head gasket is failing despite no oil/water problems, just running hot and losing water and not to mention air bubbles appearing in the overflow bottle when the engine is revved.

Today I bit the bullet and decided that the engine needs to come out, I had already taken off the fairings, the exhaust, most of the cooling system and the fuel tank, then it was onto unknown territory

First off, the ecu, the secondary fuel injectors and fuel rail

The onto the airbox

After that was the main fuel injectors and throttle bodies

Quick note of which plugs go where

Throttle bodies off...what next ?

Oh so many wires

Thermostat housing off along with the rest of the coolant hoses

Loom tucked out of harms way....where does it all go ?

Time to get busy with the Dremel......special Honda tool required

5 mins later

A good enough fit

New Honda CBR600RR Superleggera

It was encouraging that it all went straight forward, but the real challenge for me lays ahead.  Next job is to get the cylinder head off and hopefully find the cause of the issues.  Then fit a new gasket and rebuild.  I'm also thinking that whist it is like this I should do the valve clearances and anything that is on the service schedule.

I'm also thinking of stripping the rest of the bike down and painting the frame and making the whole bike mint.

During this period of rest for the bike (will be into next year before trackdays again) there are other jobs to do to....brake fluid needs changing, might as well change the pads too...infact might get some newer/cleaner calipers too.  Might even see if my 'budget' can extend to a slipper clutch too.


Love these projects, keep us updated!


Good work mate.

If you get stuck manufacturing special tools I will put you in touch with the fella off ebay who made my clutch tool for the Sherco for £18 instead of £75 from Sherco.

He does all sorts.
"Do you think God gets stoned? I think so... Look at the platypus." - Robin Williams RIP


Ooo isnt the swingarm pivot used as an engine mount on the 600rr then? I couldn't believe how much had to be taken off an SP1 and a cbr600f to get the engines out!


Yep, swingarm pivot was removed...put it back in after though, just to have a rolling chassis.


Today saw the stripdown of the top end of the engine

1 complete engine

Plugs, coils and leads removed, then off with the cam cover

Timing aligned to the correct marks

Cam chain top guide removed

Camshaft mounting brackets removed

Camshafts out

Buckets and shims removed

Bucket/shim holder that doubles up as an ice cube tray

Head off and this is the view of the top of the block

Underside of the head, with the gasket still in place

Gasket placed onto block

To be honest it's not the picture that I had imagined.  I wanted to see the gasket showing clear signs of failing so I could easily identify the problem area, then get a new gasket and rebuild.  As it stands now, I'm not entirely sure that the gasket is the cause of the water problems.  2nd opinions have now to be sought.


Left to right I'd go with nr3 cylinder. Looks like a witness mark on he waterway at 10 o'clock.
Life is a contact sport,  you'll be needing rule #5


waterways do look kinda crudded up.. i found just using water without any corrosion inhibators gave similar results.. do you use coolant not just water?

either way i'd blow out the waterways with compressed air and flush everything though a few times..


2015: NLR HT1 Endurance (1st)
2014: ACU National Endurance 1000 (2nd)


Life is a contact sport,  you'll be needing rule #5


Quote from: Millhouse on July 22, 2013, 07:52:38 AM
Shouldn't this now be v2.01?
No - this is definately a major or major.minor release ..

I think v3.1 or 2.1 potentially ;-)
2015: NLR HT1 Endurance (1st)
2014: ACU National Endurance 1000 (2nd)



Found these markings whilst getting ready to do the shims, thought I'd add them to the thread here to keep everything together

Head first

Close up

Also on the head

Then hand written inside the head is "110" on the inlet side, and "160" on the exhaust side

Then on the cases

Close up

Anyone able to decipher what they are, or why they are there ?


Interesting........ found similar initials and numbers on my SP1 when I rebuilt the top end on that, only mine said JR122 on it same place as yours either side of the crankcase join, and inside the head no idea why it was there or what it meant though?


I got the valve clearances checked this afternoon, and all in spec.  I will be getting 1 shim though, as one valve is on the tolerence of 0.03mm over (the rest are either spot on or +/- 0.01mm).

I then started the arduous task of cleaning off the stuck gasket material left on the head.  Didn't get very far, got bored very quickly, so that will have to wait for another day.