F2 model with 45,000 miles. When I'm on a positive throttle opening it's fine but when I close the throttle and engine speed drops to about 2200 rpm a little whinining noise occurs that is irritating the hell out of me.
I'm leaning towards the cam chain tensioner but thought i'd ask for a few opinions before diving in. Also at 45,ooo miles if it is the tensioner would it be wise to change the cam chain while I'm at it.
Looking forward to the Ninja knowledge. :moto:
tell her on the back to shut up ;)
Does it disappear when you pull the clutch in ?
Yes it does Gav.
Quote from: Green_Ninja on March 24, 2014, 03:13:29 PM
tell her on the back to shut up ;)
Tried that, never works! :(
Quote from: Chrispy on March 24, 2014, 03:38:46 PM
Yes it does Gav.
its not the output shaft bearing is it ? or your chain too tight putting stress on it ?
Chain isn't too tight so I'm guessing you'd be inclined towards the output shaft bearing. I've never heard of this being a problem on 9's, have you Gav? I'll investigate further.
The transmission does whine a bit on the over run on later 9's but it's difficult to tell without actually hearing the bike.
To be honest it does sound more like bearing noise now I've thought about it and after Gav planted the seed. I did have a tight spot in the chain before I changed it last winter. It could have caused some damage to the output shaft bearing. As it's just at the irritating stage at the moment I might leave it for a while to see how it develops.
Do you have a kawasaki front sprocket fitted, as they have rubbers on either side for the chain to rest on, this reduce lots of chain related noises.
I know they're relatively expensive but for noise and vibration reduction there worth it.
Cam chain tensioners can stick with dirt particles in the engine oil, but they can be worked clean if removed and worked with fresh engine oil, which should be done every valve check anyway but most people forget to do.
If you've never removed a cam chain tensioner before its not hard just not much room.
You do not have to drain the oil when removing the timing rotor cover with the bike on the side stand, and even on a paddock stand you'll only lose a few drips so have a cloth under it.
12mm ring spanner, for removing center pressure bolt first.
8mm ring spanner for the 2 x mounting bolts.
10mm socket for the timing rotor cover.
17mm ring spanner for timing rotor.
When removing the 12mm bolt be aware its sprung loaded and has a steel rod down the middle of the spring to stop it collapsing under pressure, don't loose them.
Now remover the tensioner body, and before playing with it count how many ratchet teeth are visible, because when you come to refit it you will reset it to 2 teeth less.
Now with your thumb freeing the ratchet lock, work the ratchet mechanism in and out with lot of fresh engine oil till its really smooth.
Reset to 2 clicks less than removed.
Refit the tensioner body, 2 x 8mm bolts.
Refit the tensioner spring, steel rod, and 12mm bolt and washer, this bits a little fiddly.
When its all back in the engine, use the 17mm ring spanner to slowly rotate the crank via the timing rotor bolt in a clockwise direction and listen for the tensioner taking back up the slack with the 2 or more clicks. Now its clean and you know its working, refit timing rotor cover panel.
Thanks Yorkie, next time your down Naaarfuk visiting JW maybe we'll get out for a few wet ones.
:huh: :blank: :embarrassed: