Okey, so after Ninja fest the other week, the brakes on the 6 have been binding.
Im off this week, so decided to have a look. Both sides are binding (You can see a very slight glaze on a couple of spots on the pads and disks). Both disks look straight to the eye through the calipers themselves. Very very little side to side movement.
Have had calipers off, split, cleaned and rebuilt with RRG in place of the dust seals to remove the potential for them to be causing the issue.
Re-bled the system. No change at all. Calipers were an utter bastard to even get to the point where the pots would move out to touch the back of the pads.
So, the next part to look at in the system is the m/c. Have found a local place to me that will do a rebuilt kit for 23 quid, so this is next on my list, but it looks fine from the outside, rubber boot is in good condition.
Any other ideas / suggestions? Was supposed to be doing a run around the UK this week, but thats pretty much screwed now.
Dale
I've got a spare set of calipers if you want to try them.
If the seals on the MC aren't leaking, I'd just strip, clean, and RRG them
Did you use RRG in the assembly or just as a substitute for the dust seals?
I rebuilt my ZX10R C1H calipers a while back, as per the workshop manual, all new seals and lubing everything with brake fluid on assembly but they were never 100%
They stopped the bike OK but still way too much lever before they bit
Replaced the master cylinder piuston too but saw no improvement
Tried shoving RRG in to lube the dust seals but no better
Finally decided to have 'em apart again the other day and coated all the seals, all in good condition, with RRG before putting them in place and also coated the pistons before pushing them in
Bleed was no eaiser but now the brakes are amazing, just enough movement to activate the brake light before a nice solid bite :)
I've had to wind the span adjuster to the closest setting and they are still catching me out!
Seems I've just got used to not braking over the past couple of years :shocked:
Calipers were rebuilt with RRG for the dust seals and coated the fluid seals.
I'm wondering if maybe theres some crap in the m/c and its interfering with the fluid flow or something.
Need a smaller set of circlip pliers before I can get to the internals though.
Sticking MC seals make a big difference. It is worth doing them with RRG
Did you refit the seals the right way up ? Did you remove all the crud from the seal recesses? were the pistons corroded ? and if the were, how did you clean them ?
Fluid seals have been in for well over a year without any issue.
Ended up using an m/c from another bike - resolved the issue.
Bit late but with my 900 I would cable tie the brake lever in as hard as I could to the handle bar and leave it over night or longer it would self bleed and it would be good for a while . But think all ZXR's with 6 pot's have spongy feel to front brake ?
Quote from: iow on August 05, 2013, 02:57:09 AM
Bit late but with my 900 I would cable tie the brake lever in as hard as I could to the handle bar and leave it over night or longer it would self bleed and it would be good for a while . But think all ZXR's with 6 pot's have spongy feel to front brake ?
This has been mooted before, but what we found is that when you cable tie the lever back, what this actually does is disolve the air into the fluid due to the pressure (a bit like a carbonated drink). When the pressure is released, and the fluid warms up, the bubbles come back out again.
I have found by far the best way of getting rid of air is to half pre fill an animal syringe with brake fluid, attach it to the bleed nipple on the caliper furthest away from the MC (first), crack the nipple open, then draw the bubbles out of the caliper with the syringe, then once happy, then start to back fill the system and push any remaining ones in the pipes and MC out up through to the reservoir, switch to the RHS caliper, and repeat....took me 15 minutes to bleed the whole system this way from dry a few months ago.
I have to dial my brake lever out to 3 as if it is on the highest setting, it makes it too hard to cover it with my hand span.
Quote from: iow on August 05, 2013, 02:57:09 AM
Bit late but with my 900 I would cable tie the brake lever in as hard as I could to the handle bar and leave it over night or longer it would self bleed and it would be good for a while . But think all ZXR's with 6 pot's have spongy feel to front brake ?
Never do this ....
Different m/c definitely resolved the issue. 700 miles in 3 days and the problem didnt reappear.
Now need to figure out whats actually happened to the old m/c, but in a happy coincidence, one upgrade to the NC30 is a 5/8 m/c instead of the standard 14mm to add a bit of feel.
Which is whats on the zx6 by standard :)