Anyone washed out their boots before? I have supertech-r boots and they are starting to stink a bit after a few uber sweaty trackdays! What's the best way to do it? I can't see any guidance on the alpinestars site.

After putting a set of valves, piston and rings into the WR I got a handful of rides over the last few months but a recent check of valve clearances showed them closing up. After resetting I think I have had a ride in it and then today it decided to pump out some blueish smoke and be a bit of a pig to start. Engine out again I suppose...

So I'm moving house at some point this year, in the process of buying at the minute, anyhow, the most important factor is that I go from a single to double garage... So need more tools and maybe bikes to fill up a larger space. First on the shopping list is a bike lift... Any ninjas have one... Any recommendations?

Was looking at the clarke CML3 from machine mart! Any experience of them?

Cheers, Matt.

Is there a 400 kawasaki available in the uk? Don't see any on the kawasaki dealer site. I was in Osaka last week and spotted a kawasaki dealer, so I went for a look about!

Anyone seen one of these or are they available in the uk?



Also saw this tank which looks like it's raced or tracked.



Quite a few Z800s about as well, one if which had been turbo'd!!

How much do you expect to pay for a custom map on a dyno?

I used a place over in Bristol before and it was about £300 for the gsxr. That sound about right?

Any recommendations for somewhere near Swindon?

My b1 has at stock pegs etc and although I don't really have any issue with them, I want some spare pegs/hangers etc to stick in the box for trackdays. I have never bought after market rearsets and only really know gilles as a brand name.

Can anyone suggest any alternatives... Preferably cheaper than gilles... Or are they worth spending the money on gilles for strength to avoid breaking when/if dropped??

Any thoughts?

I repacked the b1 a couple of weeks back to try and save 1dB so I could go to brands GP and meet the noise limit. When I removed the old pack it wasn't too bad, but had burnt through two layers in a couple of patches.



Anyhow, new packing rammed in as best I could...



On noise test at brands last year I got 102dB... Last week after re packing I measured at 98dB!!!

Can anyone recommend a good place to get radiators refurbished and repaired?

My previous experiences of checking clearances has always found them to be tighter rather than larger... Which I can appreciate as the valve seat wears. But so far the VFR has had them mostly being too big! I guess it will be wear on the lobes and rocker arms??

So laying for over a year with no use and a rotted out exhaust joint and in need of a general service I got the track bike work out of he way and set to work digging the VFR out of the corner of the garage!!



The main jobs I wanted to do: valve clearances, remove restrictor kit, replace exhaust, check and lube suspension linkages, replace fork springs and an oil change.



Fairings off and I start to remember how hard it is to work on cos it's so tight and small. Lower rad looks well manky, so that needs a clean up at least.



To get half a chance of getting near the rear exhaust joint the right foot peg and hanger needed to come off, it's rusting nicely at the back and the front is starting to go as well, so that will need a good clean, treated and painted.

Getting to the exhaust and unbolting it was still proving difficult and it didn't want to round off any nuts, so I took the tail off!!



That let me get to the exhaust easily. And showed up a bit of an oil leak, seems to be from the rear rocker cover seal, so it will want replacing.



Swing arm may as well come out now to check the numerous bearings and slap some fresh grease in there... But haven't got there yet.

Turn my attention back to the engine to get the carbs off. Plenty of little bits in the way to get them released and a screw holding the air box onto the carbs was nicely rounded by the previous owner, so it needed drilling out. But I got there... A nice banging hangover hasn't helped today, but here is the restrictor plates.



The hoses are 22 years old and a few joints are furring up a bit, so I will stick a set of hoses on it while I have it stripped down. Has developed into a right little project. Next up, restrictor plates out, then rocker covers off and do some valve clearance checking. Best get a tea brewed and get back to it.

So normally I would run an engine and get it nice and hot before doing an oil change, but would it be bad to just drop the oil out from cold? It's still pretty runny at these temperatures and as the engine has been sat for ages the oils will be well drained to the sump. Is there any other compelling reason to try and get it running before I drain the oil??

My current after market exhaust has no drain hole to let any moisture escape. It it normal to have a drain hole or is it common to leave it sealed and rely on heat to eventually dry out the packing?

I have ordered some bits and pieces for the B1 including some clipons and renthal grips. The clipons haven't arrived yet but the grips are here so I was gonna fit the grips in advance of Anglesey at Easter weekend. I got some grip glue, my question is whether I will be able to remove the grips and transfer them to the new clipons when they arrive or is the renthal grip glue gonna attach them to the stock bars so well that they can't be removed??

Are they 50 or 51mm?

Is there still a discount offered?
And do we still email nick@intobikes to get discount?

I have never changed sprockets on any of my bikes, but at Cartagena I swapped bikes with my mate for a session and his bike got a bit more drive out of corners, he said mine was lacking a bit of drive (I have a stock B1). Does it help much to change gearing?
If so what ratio suits the majority of tracks as the bike will only do trackdays? I got a 45 rear sprocket with the set of wheels I got for wets, which would be +5 over the standard rear, I can give it a try out to see the difference, but just wanted some opinions on whether it's worthwhile and what ratio is best?

Cheers.

I have had my arai for 9 yrs and noticed the other day it was actually manufactured in 2003!! Time for a new lid.
Has anyone had an arai and changed to another brand and found it equally as comfy etc as the arai? Looking at the sharp ratings it's possible to get a better rated lid for a lot less money and I am considering a change... Anyone else made the change from arai to ANother??

Why are they such a bunch of fuckers. I told them the b1 was gonna do no road miles and only wanted TPFT cover and they wouldn't insure me! Carol tossing Nash. What an utter pile of stupid toss.

So I'm in Spain at Cartagena and have a slightly ropey internet connection, hence I don't just google this myself.

Guy in my garage has a 2004 R6 and it isn't charging the battery. Have put a multi meter on the terminals and it's not got power. Has anyone got a link to a service manual so we can check the rectifier and determine if it's the rectifier or generator? Or can tell me what voltage and connections we should check?

Many thanks.

Don't suppose anyone has a rear spindle spacer from a zx6 or zx9 knocking about. Mines a b1 6r and it's the right had one I'm after ideally. There's several on fleabay, but just though I'd ask on here as well!!